THE SKINCARE BENEFITS OF BAKUCHIOL

Medically reviewed by Susan Bard, MD

Bakuchiol skincare has quickly gained popularity as a "natural" retinol alternative. Bakuchiol is an extract made from the seeds of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). Historically, bakuchiol has been used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine to treat tumors and skin inflammation. Today, you'll see bakuchiol in anti-aging skincare like serums, creams, and oils.

Like retinol and retinoids, bakuchiol skincare may help improve cell turnover for a more even skin tone and minimized wrinkles. However, unlike retinol, bakuchiol doesn't appear to have the same skin-irritating pitfalls as retinoid products when used on dry skin or sensitive skin. 

How Does Bakuchiol Work?

When applied to your skin, bakuchiol helps increase your skin cell turnover—meaning your dead skin cells are replaced with fresh skin cells faster. This effect helps stimulate collagen production and exfoliates the skin, which can help improve skin texture and tone. 

Lab studies show bakuchiol boosts collagen types I, III, and IV—proteins that give skin structure and flexibility. Aging naturally depletes collagen production, which is why you develop wrinkles and dry skin. By increasing your skin's collagen, bakuchiol may help add more plumpness and elasticity. This effect helps reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles.

Bakuchiol also acts as an antioxidant—a substance that helps protect your cells from damage. This may help protect the skin from environmental and ultraviolet (UV) damage that causes premature wrinkles and fine lines. In addition, bakuchiol's antioxidant effect appears to help already damaged skin repair itself.

Bakuchiol vs. Retinol

Retinoids and retinol (a type of retinoid) are vitamin A derivatives used to improve skin texture, treat acne, and reduce fine lines. Both retinol and bakuchiol products are available over-the-counter (OTC) as serums or creams. Retinol is weaker than prescription-strength retinoids, which are more effective at treating acne, acne scarring, and dark spots (hyperpigmentation). Bakuchiol is also plant-based, while many retinol products are derived from animals.

Bakuchiol works similarly to retinol as an anti-aging and skin-smoothing product. Both products use similar chemical processes to boost collagen production and increase cell turnover. This effect helps plump the skin to reduce fine lines, unclog pores, smooth textured skin, and reduce hyperpigmentation. However, retinol and other retinoids have significantly more research backing these claims than bakuchiol. 

Retinoids are also known for side effects like peeling, dryness, redness, and burning—especially on dry and sensitive skin types. Bakuchiol doesn't typically have the same irritating side effects and increases moisture retention in the skin. As a result, bakuchiol may be a better alternative for people with sensitive or dry skin. 

However, both products can make your skin sensitive to the sun. However, research shows that bakuchiol may be more stable when exposed to UV light than retinoids. This means you may have less chance of burning and sun damage. 

The Benefits of Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol isn't a proven anti-aging skincare ingredient like retinol. However, limited research shows bakuchiol skincare has the potential to reduce fine lines and sun damage, improve skin texture, and fade hyperpigmentation—without the side effects of retinol.

One 12-week study found that applying bakuchiol skincare twice daily significantly improved fine lines and wrinkles. Participants also found their skin's elasticity, firmness, and photoaging (sun damage) improved. They did not experience the redness, irritation, or dryness often experienced with retinol. 

Bakuchiol may also help reduce skin damage caused by photoaging. Another 12-week study found that participants who applied a 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily decreased wrinkles and hyperpigmentation just as effectively as those who applied 0.5% retinol cream daily. Participants who used retinol reported more instances of facial stinging and scaling skin. 

Few studies have been conducted on bakuchiol's effect on acne and acne scarring. One small 2021 study found applying 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily for 12 weeks helped reduce mild-to-moderate acne. However, this study only included 13 people.

Bakuchiol also helped improve acne-related post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation—dark spots that occur after acne breakouts. Hyperpigmentation is more common if you have a darker skin tone, making some researchers conclude bakuchiol may be more suitable for treating hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones than retinoids. In some cases, the irritation caused by retinoids can trigger hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones. 

How To Use Bakuchiol in Your Skincare Routine

Bakuchiol skincare products include serums, creams, oils, and peels. Serums, which contain bakuchiol as the main active ingredient, are typically the most popular type of bakuchiol skincare.

You can use bakuchiol serums, creams, or oils twice daily in your skincare routine. If you're replacing a retinoid or retinol product with bakuchiol, try swapping your nighttime retinol product with bakuchiol a few times a week to see how your skin reacts. You can eventually ramp up to using bakuchiol twice a day. 

To incorporate a bakuchiol serum into your skincare routine:

  1. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser
  2. Optional: Apply a toner to your skin for hydration or additional oil removal
  3. Following product instructions, gently apply a pea-sized amount of bakuchiol serum to the face, neck, and chest
  4. Follow up with a moisturizer
  5. If using bakuchiol serum during the day, apply sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 30 or more

If you're using a bakuchiol moisturizing cream, apply it day and night in place of your typical moisturizer. Bakuchiol oils can be applied after moisturizing. For bakuchiol peels, follow the product instructions. Peels are typically used at night after cleansing the skin and before moisturizing. 

Side Effects of Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is believed to be gentler and more tolerable for sensitive skin types than retinol. In rare cases, initial use can cause redness and peeling if you have sensitive skin. Bakuchiol may also make your skin sun-sensitive. If you use Bakuchiol skincare, apply sunscreen with at least 30 SPF every day to help avoid skin damage and sunburns.

If you are pregnant, you may still want to avoid bakuchiol even though it is not a Vitamin-A derivative like retinoid products (which may carry a risk of birth defects). There hasn't been any research including pregnant people and bakuchiol skincare, so there's no way to confirm the ingredient is safe for pregnant people. 

A Quick Review

Bakuchiol skincare has similar anti-aging benefits to retinol by increasing cell turnover and boosting collagen production. It is also a safer retinol alternative for dry or sensitive skin types who experience irritation and peeling with retinoids.

Research on bakuchiol serums and creams is minimal, but studies show the ingredient may reduce fine lines, photodamage, and hyperpigmentation. However, while bakuchiol works similarly to retinol and other retinoids, it's also unlikely a perfect swap. Bakuchiol also doesn't have the same potency as a prescription retinoid. 

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2024-04-15T19:08:42Z dg43tfdfdgfd